Tokina underwater shooters | Okinawa Nature Photography

I started shooting with the Tokina AT-X 10-17mm f/3.5-4.5 DXA back in 2012. It is the most popular fisheye lens used for wide-angle underwater photography. It is also known for its close focusing capabilities underwater and on land. The lens is a high-quality product built for professionals working in the field. The Tokina 10-17mm Fisheye is my favorite lens in my bag and has been my go-to lens for the project “Crabs with Beach Trash Homes“

If you plan on using the fisheye lens underwater, you will need an underwater housing. I currently use the Nauticam Na-D500 with the 100mm Zen dome port (Dp-100-N120T).

If you want to use the zoom function underwater, you must attach a zoom ring (P#19127) to the lens. The Nauticam zoom ring installation process is relatively easy.

Below are some of my favorite underwater photographs taken with the Tokina AT-X 10-17mm f/3.5-4.5 DXA combined with my older Ikelite underwater setup. I mainly focus on macro photography, but I will be pushing myself to shoot more wide-angle this year.

Okinawa is best known for its beautiful beaches and seascapes. All photographs were taken with the Tokina AT-X 10-17mm f/3.5-4.5 DXA.

Learn more about my favorite lens @ Tokinalens.com

I want to thank Tokina, Light & Motion, Nightsea, and Black Fin Grouper for all their continuous support over the years.

Have a great day!

As an underwater photographer, there will be a time when you feel all your photographs look similar and you might lose interest for a while. Creating motion in still photographs will definitely give you a new challenge and purpose. The goal is to try to show some type of motion in a still photograph. The photographs emphasize the energy, power and or speed of the subject moving. Dramatic motion images will provide depth and variety to your portfolio.

Try panning or dragging the shutter underwater

Move the camera in sync with the moving subject while the shutter stays open. A slow shutter speed will be necessary to achieve this.
Once you understand this technique try adding flash at the end of the exposure to freeze the motion of the subject (Rear curtain sync).
Get creative and add a spin the camera